We awoke earlier this month to find camp scattered with yukimarimo. These delicate, wind-blown balls of snow occur in perfect conditions of surface frost, static electricity, and breeze. Scattering before the wind like tiny creatures, they’re the closest thing to wildlife we’ve seen this season. Moving equipment out of the Big House, Grey and I headed […]

I loosen my belt, and lean across the aircraft to look down on the sea ice below. Cold air hisses through the leaking seals in the rear hatch just behind me, but we’re in our arctic garb–heavy bibs, thick flannel shirts, absurdly bulky boots–and the temperature feels fine. For hours, we’ve kept a strange, silent […]